A very hospitable guesthouse in the foothills of Snowdonia, Grwach Ynys, between Tarsarnau and Harlech, is the place to stay. It's on the edges of the Welsh speaking estuary leading to the fantasy folly of pretty Portmeirion and back round to the dunes leading to Harlech's beach. Viewed through the castle's defences, the village dwellings of Harlech teem on the crag like Haworth with a seaview. This part of Wales has unexpected aspects among its mountains drowned in cloud, and the beaches drift with the powdered gold of old sands.